For most of us around the country, spring is the beginning of the

active RVing season and is time to prepare for the upcoming

camping fun. If your RV has been in storage you’ll need to perform

a few basic procedures to ensure that it’s ready for the road

with this spring-prep checklist:

Start with the exterior. Check the outside, including the roof, for

any cracks or separation and look inside for stains on the ceiling

from leaks.

Look underneath for signs of any leaks or other damage. Check

for insect and rodent nests and gnawed wires and hoses. Remove

any caps, plugs or covers installed for storage.

Clean the RV inside and out. Vacuum the carpets and clean the

floors and other surfaces as needed.Wash and wax the exterior to

protect the finish.Apply UV-protectant to shield plastic from sun

damage.

Check fluids and connections, then check the amount of LP gas

and test appliances for proper functioning, including stove, furnace,

refrigerator and water heater.

Fill the freshwater tank, adding 1/4 cup of household bleach for

each 15 gallons capacity to purify the water. Open the cold and

hot water faucets (to get bleach through the water heater). Drain

the freshwater tank, then refill, along with 1/4 cup of baking soda

per 15 gallons. Run the hot water, drain and refill with fresh

water. Test the water pump and water system, including the water

heater. Then go to a dump station and empty the holding tanks.

On motorhomes, tow vehicles and generators, change the oil and

filter and perform all recommended services such as replacing air

and fuel filters and chassis lubrication according to the service

manuals. Loss of fluid is usually a sign that something is wrong.

Thoroughly inspect any system that seems to be losing fluid until

you determine the reason.

Note the color of the coolant and flush and change it if it’s

cloudy, rusty or due for replacement. Test it for mixture, because

a 50/50 ratio (-34 degrees F freezeproofing) of antifreeze to water

provides excellent boil-over resistance along with rust and corrosion

protection. Thermostats should also be replaced every few

years.

Inspect the suspension system and replace the shocks or other

parts if worn. On trailers, give spring shackles extra attention.

Brake fluid absorbs moisture and old contaminated brake fluid

can damage brake parts and lower the fluid’s boiling point. If you

haven’t replaced the brake fluid in the last two years, get it done

now using fluid approved by the vehicle manufacturer.

Check batteries for electrolyte level and state of charge.

Connections should be cleaned and treated with an anti-corrosive

product.

Measure the air pressure and tread depth on all tires (including

spares) and look for damage or uneven wear, which is an indication

of alignment problems that should be corrected. Set tire

pressures. Make sure all wheel lug nuts are tight.

Trailers and tow dollies should have the brakes inspected and

wheel bearings repacked.

Test smoke alarms and carbon-monoxide detectors and replace

batteries as needed.

Check the gauges and date tags on fire extinguishers.

Check and refill your first aid and emergency kits.

Test all lights, inside and out. Check and adjust the trailer-brake

control (if applicable.)

Inspect the wiper blades and windshield-washer operation.

Summer heat puts extra stress on mechanical systems, but a good

pre-trip inspection can greatly reduce the chance of costly and

possibly dangerous problems from ruining your vacation.

Mechanical breakdowns are often caused by a lack of proper

maintenance and therefore most are avoidable. This early preparation

makes the trip go smoother with less stress and it additionally

allows you to save money by making repairs at a relaxed

pace at home or having them done by your regular trusted

mechanic.

Before you set out on a long trip, refer to your vehicle’s service

records and the maintenance section of the owner’s manual.

Note the date and mileage that an oil and filter change is due. If

it’s due or close to it, have the oil changed before you leave.

Check all fluid levels, including:

Oil, coolant, power steering, brake fluid, windshield washer,

transmission fluid, etc., and refill as needed, using factory approved

types of fluids.

Inspect the condition of all hoses and belts. Replace if cracks,

splits, or signs of leakage or damage are noticed.

Inspect all tires and wheels for signs of wear or damage. Check

and adjust tire pressures as necessary. The pressure listed on the

tire’s sidewall is usually the maximum pressure the tire is rated

for when it’s cold. Recommended pressure is often posted in the

owner’s manual, on the driver’s door, inside the fuel filler or in

the glove compartment.

Inspect the steering and suspension components. Check the

brakes, including parking-brake operation.

Check the batteries for water level, terminal corrosion and state

of charge.

Check the levels of freshwater, LPG and holding tanks.

Test the operation of the heating and air-conditioning systems,

instruments, windshield wipers/washers, horns, lights, mirrors

and seat belts.

Wash and wax the exterior to protect the finish. Clean the interior

and apply UV-protectant to shield plastic from sun damage.

Verify that the step is retracted, vents are closed, storage compartments

are locked and awning(s) are secured.

Make sure you have a cell phone and charger. You are a member

of Good Sam’s Emergency Road Service, aren’t you?

Stock up with items for cooking, cleaning, sleeping and entertaining,

including games, books, cards, puzzles, CDs, DVDs or

videos.

Pack the Trailer Life Campground Directory plus detail maps of

the areas you’ll be visiting.

Before driving off each day, get in the habit of doing a walkaround

inspection. Check (as a minimum) the following items:

Check the top of the coach, close vents, and make sure the TV

antenna or satellite dish is retracted.

Detach and stow all electrical cords, phone and cable TV wires,

freshwater and sewer hoses, etc.

Remove any jacks, leveling devices and/or wheel chocks.

Check fluid levels and exterior lights, including stop, tail and turn

signals. Trailer and dinghy vehicle lights are especially prone to

failure.

Check tire pressures.

Inspect trailer hitches, safety chains and wiring connections.

If you intend to continue camping during the fall season, use the

preceding pre-trip and daily checklists, but winterize your RV if

freezing temperatures are a possibility. If you have finished

camping for the year, follow all these steps to prepare for storage.

Fill the fuel tank(s) and add fuel-storage stabilizer.

Change the oil and filter on motorhomes, tow vehicles or generators.

Measure the freeze protection of the antifreeze in the engine and

correct as needed.

Park on pavement or raise the coach and park on jackstands.

Shut off LP gas valve(s).

Remove accumulated bugs and dirt from the radiator and airconditioning

condensers.Most dirt and bugs can be removed by

gently brushing and then by rinsing with a hose from the back.

Clean the coach inside and out and apply wax for protection.

Remove any food items and prop the refrigerator open slightly.

Block off any entry points for insects or rodents.

Inspect the roof and outside of the coach for any damage or

openings that might allow water to enter. Seal or repair as needed.

Plumbing systems must be protected against freezing. Before any

freezing nights take you by surprise, it’s important to prepare

your rig for that unexpected cold snap. These can occur surprisingly

early, especially up in the mountains at high altitude and

can result in costly damage to the plumbing system if water

freezes.

There are two distinct methods of winterizing the water system;

removing all the water from the system by blowing it out with

compressed air, or by adding a special non-toxic antifreeze

designed specifically for RV use. In either case:

Drain the freshwater tank and the water heater.

Flush and drain the gray-water tank.

Flush and drain the black-water holding tank and add chemicals.

If you have low-point drain lines under your RV, open the hot

and cold faucets.Open the low-point drain lines and let the water

drain out. Close the drain lines and faucets.

Blow out the water lines: (With low-point drain lines, this may

not be necessary). Screw a compressed-air adapter onto the “city”

main fresh-water inlet.

Apply compressed air, keeping pressure below 20 psi.

Open each faucet, one at a time, to let water out of lines, including

the sinks, inside and outdoor showers and toilet.

With the hot-water heater drain plug open, blow out the water in

this tank.

Remove the compressed-air adapter.

Replace the drain plug in the hot water heater and close all

faucets

Purchase some non-toxic antifreeze made specifically for potable

water systems from an RV shop. For most coaches you’ll need

about one or two gallons.

Begin with the water pump off and all faucets closed.

Close the water bypass valve to your hot-water heater. (If you

don’t have a water bypass valve, this is a good time to install one.

Otherwise, you’ll have to fill the hot-water heater with antifreeze,

which requires an additional six gallons or more of antifreeze.)

Disconnect the water line where it joins the freshwater tank, or if

your coach is so equipped, shut off the valve coming from the

freshwater tank and open the valve for the winterizing inlet line.

Place the water inlet line into the container of RV antifreeze.

Switch on the water pump and allow it to push the antifreeze into

the lines.

Open each faucet slowly, one at a time, until the antifreeze comes

out steadily and then close the faucet valve. Be sure to do this

with the shower and toilet.

Shut off the water pump and remove the inlet line from the

antifreeze, then either re-connect the water line or shut the winterizing

valve and reopen the freshwater valve (if equipped).

Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain so the sink and

shower/tub traps are protected. Pour some antifreeze in the toilet

also, but don’t flush it.

If minimum temperatures are likely to dip below about 10

degrees F., buy a test kit designed for non-toxic RV antifreeze and

test the antifreeze protection level in the system.

Check the electrolyte level of the batteries. Remove and store

them in a cool dry place where it won’t freeze. Place them on a

maintenance charger designed for storage.

Secure vents and windows. Cover windows inside with reflective

material or cardboard to protect curtains and interior surfaces

from fading.

Lock all doors and storage compartments.

3/8-inch drive ratchet & socket set

(3/8- to 3/4-inch or 8mm to 19mm

sockets)

1/2-inch drive ratchet, breaker bar &

socket set (with 1/2 to 1 1/4-inch or

12mm to 27mm sockets)

Adjustable (Crescent-style) wrench

(12-inch)

Allen wrench assortment

Flashlight (with spare batteries)

Four-way lug wrench

Hacksaw w/ spare blades

Hammer

Hydraulic bottle-type jack (rated for

heaviest axle)

Jumper cables (16-ft. long heavy duty)

Multimeter or test lamp

Oil-filter wrench

Pliers, regular, side-cutter and

channel-lock style

Repair manual with wiring diagrams

Spark plug socket (make sure it fits)

Various sizes of common and Phillips

screwdrivers

Vise grip-style locking pliers

Wire crimping tool

Toolbox

12-volt air compressor

Assorted nuts and bolts

Few things are more frustrating than having a relatively minor

mechanical or electrical problem, but not having the simple

items needed to fix it and get back on the road. The following

items, listed alphabetically, will help fix the majority of problems

you might encounter.

Most trailers and older motorhomes use inch-fractional fasteners.

However, many late-model motorhome chassis and domestic

or imported tow vehicles require metric tools. Make sure you

know what types you need before obtaining tools.

First-aid kits sold in stores

don’t include all the items you

need for camping. Therefore,

most RVers assemble their own

kit that suits their requirements.

Either buy a ready

made kit and add items to it,

or gather all the contents individually.

Here’s an alphabetical

list of items that will work for

most families:

Alcohol wipes

Adhesive tape

Antacid

Anti-diarrhea medicine

Antiseptic creme

Aspirin (or other pain-relief

medications)

Bandages (rolled gauze, 1-inch

wide)

Betadine disinfectant

Blister kit

Butterfly closures (for cuts)

Calamine lotion

Cold pack

Cotton balls and swabs

Elastic bandages (for strains

and sprains)

Emergency (reflective) blanket

Eye drops

Fever thermometer

First aid manual

Gauze pads (2x2 and 4x4-

inch)

Hand-cleaning wipes

Hotpack

Insect repellent

Insect sting kit

Insurance ID cards

Laxative

Magnifying glass

Pen and small notebook

Prescription medicines

Safety pins

Scissors

Spare eyeglasses

Sunblock

Triangular bandage

Tweezers (for splinters)

Brake fluid

Crimp-type electrical connector

assortment

Drivebelt(s)

Electrical and duct tape

Engine oil

Epoxy glue

Fuel filter(s)

Funnel

Grease

Penetrating oil

Pipe wrench

Pocket knife

Radiator hoses and heater hose, plus

clamps

Rags

Road flares or reflective triangles

Rolls of electrical wire in various

gauges

RTV silicone sealant

Rubber fuel line (6 ft.)

Sandpaper and emery cloth

Spare fuses and fusible links

Spare light bulbs (dash, headlamp,

stop, tail, marker lamp)

Super glue

Teflon plumber’s tape

Transmission fluid

Waterless hand cleaner

Wheel chocks

Work gloves